Second hand cars Test Drive Checklist NZ: What to Look For in 15 Minutes

What to Check When Test Driving a Second Hand Car in NZ

Fifteen minutes can tell you a lot about a second hand car. Not everything, of course, but enough to sort a smart buy from a money pit. In Aotearoa, where a daily commute might include a cold start, a quick run on the motorway, a steep hill and a tight supermarket park, a focused test drive is possibly the most valuable part of your decision.

This guide gives you a crisp plan you can apply on the spot. You’ll move from a cold start to open road to parking, with your eyes and ears tuned to the signals that matter. Bring your licence, a calm head, and this checklist.

The 15-minute game plan

Use the time windows below to keep the drive moving. If a seller or yard can’t accommodate this route, ask why. A confident car and an honest dealer welcome a structured drive.

Before you start the engine

Begin outside. Look for signs of hard use that a polish can’t hide. Tyre tread should be even left to right. Panels should line up neatly. Stone chips are expected in NZ, but mismatched paint can suggest repairs. Open and close every door, the boot and the bonnet. They should latch easily.

Sit in the driver’s seat and adjust it fully. Check that mirrors, steering reach and rake, and lumbar (if fitted) work without strain. Then turn the key to accessories and make sure the dash lights up. Now is the time to test wipers, indicators, windows, central locking, and the infotainment screen. Bluetooth pairing should be quick. The air con should blow cold within a minute.

• Tyre wear pattern
• Signs of leaks under car
• Wheel alignment look
• Panel fit and paint quality
• Cabin odour
• Keys and remotes: Do both keys lock, unlock and start the car
• Seat belts: Retract smoothly and click in without fuss
• Lights: Headlights, high beam, brake lights and indicators all work
• Infotainment: Speaker clarity and quick response
• Climate: A/C cools fast, heater warms promptly

Cold start and idle

A proper cold start is valuable. If the engine is already warm when you arrive, ask for a cold start next time. Turn the key or press start and listen. The engine should catch quickly, idle steadily around the normal RPM, and settle without hunting. No ticking or tapping beyond a brief moment on start-up. No heavy fuel smell at the tailpipe.

Watch the dash. All warning lights should appear on the first key position, then go out after start. An airbag light that stays on typically means a fail for the WOF. If there is an engine light, ask for a scan report. Switch on the lights, rear demister, and air con together. The idle may drop slightly, then stabilise. That shows the alternator and idle control are doing their job.

Low-speed loop

Head to a quiet street. Up to 50 km/h, feel for vibrations through the wheel and seat. A pull to one side can point to alignment or brake drag. Find a small bump or speed table and roll over at 30 km/h. The suspension should compress and release without clunks. Steering should be light yet precise around centre.

Test the brakes progressively. Start with a gentle stop from 40 km/h, then a firmer stop if the road is clear. The pedal should feel consistent, without pulsing or a long travel. A shudder under braking often signals warped discs. In a manual, find the clutch bite point. Engagement should be smooth with no judder. In an auto or CVT, set off normally and then briskly. Shifts should be clean and timely, with engine speed matched to road speed rather than flaring.

Open-road burst

Merge onto a motorway or find an 80 to 100 km/h stretch. You’re judging stability now. Does the car track straight without constant steering correction. At 90 to 100 km/h, do a gentle lane change and back again. Body movement should be controlled. Listen for wind noise around mirrors and doors. A loud hum that changes with speed can be a wheel bearing.

Hold a steady throttle and glance at the temperature gauge. It should reach normal and sit there. If the car has adaptive cruise, set it briefly. The system should lock on surges and slow-downs without jerking. Drive a short uphill section if you can. A healthy engine pulls without pinging or hesitation. In a turbo model, boost should arrive smoothly.

Hill work and a full stop

New Zealand’s hills stress drivetrains. Find a moderate incline. In an auto, kick down and listen for clean downshifts without flares. In a manual, climb a gear higher than usual to feel low-end torque, then downshift early to test synchros. Nothing should crunch.

Pull over on the hill. Apply the handbrake or park hold. It should hold the car without excessive lever travel. Release and creep forward. Now reverse a metre and stop again. The drivetrain should not thump when you change direction.

Parking drill and tight turns

Head to a car park. This is where daily frustrations surface. Try a three-point turn in a narrow aisle. The steering should turn fully without a groan from the pump or electrics. On full lock at a crawl, light scrub is normal on some AWD models, but shudder or knocking from the front end is not.

Test the camera and parking sensors. Image should be clear and not laggy. Sensors should ping objects predictably, not randomly. Check the turning circle by making a slow U-turn. Then park next to a kerb to confirm you can judge the edges easily. Visibility counts for daily confidence.

Fast checks that spot red flags

You won’t diagnose every fault in a quarter hour, but your senses will flag the need for a deeper inspection or a walk-away.

• Cold start smoke: Blue smoke hints at oil burning, white steam that lingers can mean coolant
• Gear change feel: Sloppy manual shift or jerky auto shows wear or poor servicing
• Steering play: More than a small free play at the wheel suggests wear in rack or tie-rods
• Brake smell: A hot, sharp smell after a short drive can point to binding
• Electrical gremlins: Flickering screens, dim lights or random warnings indicate poor grounds or battery issues
• Unusual engine noise
• Vibration at steady speeds
• Wet carpets or a damp boot
• Uneven tyre brands on one axle

Paperwork that protects your wallet

A tidy drive is only half the story. Back it with documents that prove the car’s history. A current WOF is helpful, but look at what was advised or fixed. Rego status matters for your costs in the first months. Ask for service invoices, not just a stamped book. Oil changes on time are the cheapest insurance a car ever gets.

Run a PPSR check to confirm there is no finance owing. If the car is an import, read the entry certification notes. Kilometres matter less than how they were racked up. A vehicle that has done regular long runs often ages better than one that’s short-tripped around town.

• Odometer consistency: Service records and WOF sheets should show a steady climb
• Recall status: Confirm completed recalls by VIN search
• Spare key and codes: Extra key present and security codes recorded

Weather, roads and the NZ factor

Our roads and climate ask a lot from cars. Coarse-chip seal can raise cabin noise. Use the open-road window to judge if you can live with it in that model. Coastal areas and ski trips expose metal to salt and grit. Peek at the underbody for surface rust on fasteners and exhaust hangers. A little is normal on older cars, flaky sections are not.

Rain arrives without much warning. If the road is wet, you gain another useful test. Do a gentle stop to feel ABS pulse. The car should remain straight. Windshield demist should clear a fogged screen quickly with A/C on. Wiper sweep should cover well without streaks. Replace blades is minor; a weak blower is not.

Tech helpers and a second set of eyes

If you have a compact OBD2 reader, ask to plug it in after the drive. Stored codes can reveal intermittent faults that don’t trigger a dash light. Your smartphone can record sound or vibration if something seems off. But don’t let gadgets slow you down. The 15-minute plan keeps momentum and gives you clear signals.

Bring a friend who is blunt. One person drives while the other listens and watches. Swap roles if time allows. Different drivers pick up different clues, and confidence rises when two people agree on what they feel.

What a good dealer adds to this process

A quality yard makes this easy. Keys are ready, the route is known, and the team rides with you only if you want guidance. At AJ Motors, the focus is simple: the best vehicles in the country at the lowest possible prices, and a buying process that feels straight-up. If you want finance, the team can build a package that matches your budget, with 0% deposit available for approved customers and a clear path to making the car 100% yours.

Looking for a sharp rate. If there is a lower finance rate in New Zealand that suits your profile, AJ Motors will beat it. That level of confidence comes from being finance specialists rather than just a yard with a lending tool. If you’re out of town, nationwide delivery brings the car to your door, fully detailed and ready.

Worried about the unexpected. Mechanical breakdown insurance is available, with cover options that fit how you drive. You can sort those covers on the spot. It pairs well with a thorough test drive, as you’ll start your ownership with clarity and a safety net. You’ll also get straight advice on servicing schedules, common maintenance items for your model, and how to keep running costs in check.

Most importantly, you won't be rushed. The team is friendly, knowledgeable, and ready to ride along or step back while you follow your checklist. Questions are welcomed. For buyers who can't inspect second hand cars in person, we provide underbody photos, cold-start videos, and live walk-arounds to give you full confidence before purchase.

Model-specific notes worth a minute

Every car has its quirks. Hybrids need a minute to confirm smooth transitions between engine and battery drive, and that the hybrid battery holds charge in traffic. Diesels should pull cleanly without a wall of black smoke under load, and the DPF light should not be on. Small turbo petrol engines need regular oil changes and quality fuel, so service history matters a lot. AWD utes and SUVs benefit from even tyre sizes and brands across all four corners to protect the centre diff.

European imports often have deeper menus in their infotainment and more sensors. A yard that knows the model will help you test all this quickly. Japanese imports tend to be low mileage and tidy, which is especially appealing for consumers in search of second hand cars; check for language settings on the head unit and local map support if you care about built-in navigation.

A short word on value beyond the price tag

Price matters, of course. But value lives in how the car drives, how it was cared for, and how it will treat you over the next 50,000 k’s. A car that starts clean, tracks straight, stops with confidence and makes no excuses during your 15-minute plan tells you the previous owner did the right things. That’s the car you want.

If you’re weighing two similar second hand cars, repeat the same route for both. Use the table as your script and score them honestly. The one that leaves you relaxed after the drive is often the better buy, even if it sits a fraction higher on price. Your future self will thank you.

Ready to test your next car. Bring this plan to AJ Motors, ask for a cold start, and take those 15 minutes seriously. You’ll be surprised how much you can learn, and how quickly a great car makes itself known.